Chainsaws

Choosing a chainsaw

Bar length is the first decision. A 12–14″ bar suits pruning and small limbs; 16–18″ covers most firewood and general property work; 20″ and above is for milling and large felling and needs the engine capacity to match. Buying more bar than the powerhead can drive is the most common mistake — it bogs down and you work harder, not faster.

Petrol still dominates for sustained cutting and anywhere away from power. Battery saws have improved enormously and are genuinely good for pruning, small limbs and jobs where noise matters — and they start every time. If you already own batteries in a brand, staying in that system usually beats buying across ranges.

Chain and bar care

A chain blunts quickly, especially if you touch dirt or a hidden nail. If you find yourself pushing harder than usual to get through timber, it needs sharpening. A blunt chain stretches, and it damages the sprocket and bar — a cheap sharpen prevents an expensive replacement.

Top up bar and chain oil every time you refill fuel. A dry chain heats up fast enough to damage the chain, bar and sprocket, and in bad cases the clutch and engine. Check the oil holes in the bar are clear and keep the bar rails clean.

Two-stroke fuel

Use the ratio your manufacturer specifies. High-quality 50:1 oils — the sort sold by garden equipment specialists rather than department stores — are 100ml per 5 litres. Cheaper 25:1 oils are 200ml per 5 litres. If you are ever unsure, mix richer rather than leaner: too little two-stroke oil causes serious and usually permanent engine damage. We stock 50:1 synthetic and semi-synthetic oils in store.

Servicing

Most manufacturers recommend a service at least once a year. Petrol-based fuels and oils break down while sitting, leaving gum and sludge that blocks lubrication points and causes rapid wear. Our workshop services all brands, and every job carries a three-month guarantee.